what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

Breiz Heurope

3 min read

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11-03-2025

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Alkaline perms, known for their ability to create tighter curls and waves, rely on a specific active ingredient to restructure the hair. This ingredient is crucial for the chemical process that breaks and reforms the hair's bonds, leading to a lasting change in its shape. Understanding this active ingredient is key to understanding how alkaline perms work and what to expect from the process.

The Key Player: Ammonium Thioglycolate

The active ingredient in most alkaline perms is ammonium thioglycolate (ATG). This chemical compound is a reducing agent, meaning it breaks the disulfide bonds within the hair's protein structure, keratin. These bonds are responsible for the hair's shape and strength. Breaking these bonds allows the hair to be reshaped into the desired curl pattern.

How Ammonium Thioglycolate Works

Ammonium thioglycolate works by releasing thioglycolic acid, which attacks the disulfide bonds in the hair. This process weakens the bonds, allowing the hair to be easily manipulated into the new curl formation. The alkalinity of the solution (usually achieved with ammonia or other alkalis) helps to swell the hair shaft, making it more receptive to the ATG’s action. The higher the alkalinity, the faster and stronger the curl.

The Role of Alkalinity

While ammonium thioglycolate is the primary active ingredient, the alkalinity of the perm solution is essential for its effectiveness. The pH level of the solution significantly impacts how quickly and effectively the ATG works. Alkaline perms typically have a pH of 9.0 to 9.6. This high pH level helps to:

• Swell the hair cuticle: This allows for better penetration of the ATG into the hair shaft.
• Increase the speed of the reaction: A higher pH accelerates the breaking of the disulfide bonds.
• Enhance curl formation: The swollen hair shaft is more pliable, allowing for tighter curls.

Understanding pH Levels

It's important to note that while alkalinity is necessary for a successful perm, excessively high pH levels can damage the hair. This is why it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and use products specifically formulated for perms. Using improperly formulated solutions or improper application techniques can lead to hair breakage or damage.

Other Ingredients in Alkaline Perms

Besides ammonium thioglycolate and the alkaline agent, alkaline perm solutions contain other ingredients to enhance the process and protect the hair. These may include:

• Conditioners: Help to maintain hair health and reduce damage during the process.
• Stabilizers: Help to regulate the reaction and prevent unwanted side effects.
• Fragrances: Mask the strong odor of the chemicals.

Choosing the Right Alkaline Perm

The choice of alkaline perm depends on several factors, including hair type, desired curl pattern, and individual preferences. It is always best to consult with a professional hair stylist who can assess your hair's condition and recommend the most suitable product and process. Remember, proper application and aftercare are crucial for achieving beautiful, long-lasting curls while minimizing hair damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Are alkaline perms damaging to hair?

Alkaline perms can be damaging if not done correctly. The high pH levels can weaken the hair if the process isn't carefully controlled. This is why it's important to use professional products and techniques.

Q: What is the difference between alkaline and acid perms?

Acid perms use a lower pH solution, resulting in gentler processing and less damage. They typically produce looser curls than alkaline perms.

Q: How long do alkaline perms last?

The longevity of an alkaline perm depends on several factors, including hair type, aftercare, and the perm's strength. Generally, they last several weeks or months before needing a touch-up.

Understanding the active ingredient in alkaline perms – ammonium thioglycolate – and its interaction with the alkaline solution is vital for anyone considering this hair treatment. Remember to always prioritize professional application and aftercare to maintain healthy, beautiful curls.